Day Ten (Monday, April 16th)

It is our last morning in LP and we do all the things we think we'll feel guilty if we don't do after having been here for so long. Things like the night market, avoiding the New Year's festivities, and feeling sick because of our meds have taken up more time than anticipated.

The day starts of at 6:00 am watching the monks giving alms. All the monks in a row in orange walking down the sidewalk.





Later in the day we check out some of the Temples.

And yes, hit the market just one more time. I could totally return to this place again, just to shop. Robert warned me. In fact, I've purchased so much on this trip that I need to buy another bag. Robert also advised me to bring an extra bag. Knowing my own discipline I chose not to bring a whole empty bag for stuff. So much for that.

All the vendors store their wares in these plastic like bag things that are probably ten cents each. I need one. The first vendor I approach refuses. The second one sells it to me for $4 dollars. I have a handknit purse for $3 dollars in my possession but somehow this dumpy, cheap, one step up from a plastic bag container is going to end up costing me.

Earlier in the week we noticed that many vendors were selling birds. Apparently, they trap the birds, put them in a little cage, people buy them, and then release them. And then the birds are trapped again. That's a business model I like.





We arrive at the airport in LP. We had done some itinerary switching and Teri and I thought we were on the same flight. It turns out that Teri's flight was two hours ago and I'm booked on the flight that is going to leave shortly. Being the nice sister I am (remember, shirt off my back) I give Teri my seat. She needs to get back to Bangkok tomorrow to fly home to Seattle.

But boy oh boy do I relish the opportunity to chastise Teri for totally relying on me to make all the plans, have all the money (her Visa couldn't get her cash so I was the SUGAH for this trip). Teri owns up to it, which makes chastising her less fun. Actually, I really appreciate that.

Luckily, I get a seat on this flight. We have a goofy time on the way home. Somehow, we have taken great amusement in the name of the author of my book "Joyce Carol Oates." Every time we say it we laugh. We play hangman. We play Tic Tac Toe. I beat Teri at one round. It's like the first time in 20 years I haven't tied someone in Tic Tac Toe. I finish my book and Teri off the picture of JOYCE and give it to Teri for memories. Why this name is so funny, I don't know. But I guarantee I could call Teri up right now, say that name, and we would laugh hysterically.

We get to Bangkok and it's back to our home away from home, The Novotel Hotel. I have to admit, I'm kind of glad that I won't have to do a spider check before I go to the bathroom. And, as charming as the Luang Prabang geckos were during our dinners, I'm glad they won't be joining us tonight.

We spend much time loading the pictures in the high class business center. It's fun to see the trip come to life. We make reservations at the same restaurant where we made reservations last time. Last time, we slept through them. This time, we sleep through them again. At least we're consistent.

I packed very lightly for this trip. I thought I would buy some clothes. Haven't really done that. I wear a smelly t-shirt and my sarong to dinner. Teri is horrified and rightfully so. I do look pretty dumpy.

Here are all the pics from the day. Click on the picture below to see the full album.

Day Ten (4.16.07)

Day Nine (Sunday, April 15th)

Tax day in USA. Ok, officially this year tax day is April 17th. But you get the idea. I hope my return has been deposited into my checking account by the time I return. This trip isn't free.

Teri and Jamie take Day Two of the Trek. Day One was two days ago but that's besides the point.

We are excited to get out of town because getting soaked is getting old. Apparently, the water is unescapable as all the villagers along the way to the road delight in trying to soak the tour van.

We're lucky that the tour company was nice enough to "make up" Day Two, given our, um, ok, my abrupt departure from Day One. Tung is still our guide but we are also joined by the owner of the tour company and his family. It feels like we're part of family outing which is nice.

On the walk to the waterfall we see some protected bears. They don't quite looks like USA bears.



Then we get to the waterfall. There are tons of people and it feels a bit touristy but since so few of the tourists are American it feels more acceptable.

Tung starts to take us up the steep path to the waterfall. I am huffing and puffing but making the climb. This time, for a change, it's Teri who is tired. She hasn't slept well, she feels lightheaded and she decides not to make the climb. The tables have turned for Princess and Jamie today and Jamie secretly delights in finally being the one with more energy than her sister. I was so invigorated by the experience (of climbing, but also out-energizing my sister) that I bounded up the trail. Tung had to ask me to slow down.

We return to one of the pools below the waterfall to use the roap swing. Teri is still feeling sluggish so I approach the tree by myself. Jamie leads the way today! A little boy is manning the rope and he hands me the vine. I nervously step forward. Vine in hand. Ok, Jamie, you're in a bikini, and there are lots of tourists here and there's a long line. One, two, three, Go. I'm still on the tree. Haven't jumped. Teri had better be ready with that camera. One, Two, Three. Nevermind the countdown, I just go. I hold onto the roap, swing out and plop into the water. It's not exactly top form or anything but I did it. When I splash into the water, yep, my bikini is practically off! I fix it before I surface. The last thing I want is to be "That topless American" in someone's photo album.

The Approach



The Descent


The Splash


Eventually I suceed in getting Teri to go too.











There are some younger English speaking tourists at the waterfall and I start off with the standard opener get to know you question:

Me: Where are you from?

Them: Minnesota.

Unbelievable. I'm in the middle of Laos and I meet Minnesotans. They are Hmong, actually but still, Minnesotans. I'm laughing. I can't wait to tell Robert.

Jamie and the Minnesotans jump off waterfall behind the rope swing. Even though it looks easy, it's actually more frightening.

We leave the waterfall at the same time as just about everyone else so that we can see the parade and Miss Lao will be revealed. We have a great view from our hotel balcony. Teri has a telephoto lense. Most of the parade is just a more organized version of the drenching that has been going on in the streets but then we see the Miss Lao float. Teri and I, being so vain ourselves, are curious what the prettiest lady in the country looks like. Here comes the float. And Miss Lao is facing the other direction. Well, she has a nice back.





We take amusement in seeing some of the Mister Miss Lao shemales.





Other Parade Snaps:


Is anyone exempt from being soaked? Apparently not.




















This is a nice series that Teri shot.















That evening we're at the Night Market, discussing pillowcases when the electricity goes out. In the whole town. For the second time. Luckily, I have my little light/clock hanging from my belt. Once again, my dorky preparations save the day. Ah, to be so smug so often. We shop until we run out of currency. Which appears to be theme on this trip.

We were supposed to meet the Minnesotans at some bar, The Hive? but Teri is still feeling a little slow.

I plead with her to go party it up, but she resists. That's totally not true, btw. Teri will always be the party girl.

This day was more exciting than I made it sound. Somehow I feel I have lost my adventure telling mojo.

Want more waterfall and parade pics? You got it. Click on the picture of Teri below (and if you thought it was me, Jamie, then I'm flattered) to see more pictures.

Day Nine (4.15.07)

Day Eight (Saturday, April 14th)

Perhaps you are wondering why and how I have the time to write on this blog while I am on vacation. Well, right now Teri and I are hiding out in an internet cafe because we just can't deal with being outside anymore.

Let me explain. This week is the Lao New Year. I'm not sure the reason, but part of the tradition is for people to soak each other in the streets. I am not talking about little sprays or anything like that. It's perfectly OK for a perfect stranger to come up to someone and just drop a bucket of water all over you. Good thing the water is warm. At first it is fun, and gives me another chance to be smug because I am wearing my quick dry outfit and Teri is not. In fact, she is wearing white short shorts which once soaked, proves to be a problem. We won't be visiting the temples today!





But, after a while, it gets a little annoying. And now they are also spraying talcum powder. I especially don't like tourist on tourist dousing. I am very curious about the reason for all this ritual but at this point, do not want to be a part of it.

We decide to get massages. Which are available on every street block for very little money. It is amazing. Amazing. I am so happy. So so happy. Except for Gwen Stefani blasting in the street. I am going to get one every day. Heck, I might even get another one later tonight.

Then we have a little lunch.



And run out of all currency. Those damn cash only Visas we had to get to enter the country really foiled my plan to be prepared for everything because really have no money and because of the New Year, obtaining any cash proves difficult. Plus, the last thing we want to do is wander the streets looking.

We find a place with a TWENTY PERCENT mark up but we are in need of cash, quiet and internet, all of which are provided in this place where I am now. Note to self: Pay back lunch place. Don't want to get blacklisted at shops around here. I need my massages.

We walk back to our hotel. Someone calls out to us "Hey Miss America." I've been Teri's sister long enough to know they're calling to her.

We decide we need quiet and go to Joma which is the closest thing this town has to a Starbucks. Unfortunately the only seats remaining are underneath an air conditioner which is cold and noisy. So we head outside, where is it hot and noisy. We both read for a bit.

Admittedly, I have not been much of a night owl on this trip. Traveling wears me out and sometimes the night scene doesn't really seem particularly authentic to the locale. But, tonight I promise Teri I'll put on one of her pretty dresses and go out. We head to restaurant and ten minutes into our meal the power goes out in the whole entire town.

I was in NYC for the blackout of August 14th, 2003 and now I'm here for this. Well, I guess we won't be paying for dinner with a credit card. We eat by candlelight. So romantic, Teri and Jamie.

So, what can we do with no power? Teri suggests a foot massage. They last 60 minutes. I can't imagine what you could possibly do to feet for an hour but whatever, the power is out. I sit down and the massage guys starts to touch my foot. I start laughing hysterically. This is going to be a very long 60 minutes. Eventually I'm able to supress my giggles and enjoy it.

During the foot massage the power goes back on so we head to a wine bar. The wine bar is closing but some random guy named Pat is able to keep it open a little longer because he really wants to buy Teri a glass of wine. And I'm the sister so I'll get one as well but Teri definitely bated this one. He's very drunk, keeps on looking at himself in the mirror but believe it or not, he knows a lot about architecture so Teri carries on the best conversation she can with a drunk guy.

We also meet two Belgian tourists. I love my sister, I really do, but I have to admit, it's nice to talk to someone else besides her. Even if he is drunk and self-absorbed.

Pat says goodbye to the Belgian tourists by picking them up a spinning them around. I swear if this guy attempts anything more than "Nice to meet you" I'm running out.

We head back to the hotel. When we walk into the room we wonder if we are alone. I haven't told you yet about the itsy bitsy spider that's been lurking in our bathroom. This hairy thing is neithy itsy or bitsy and I've taken to using the guest toilet in the lobby instead of heading in there.

Teri successfully manages to scare the crap out of me twice by brushing my leg and making me think it's the spider. We decide that we will use our mosquito nets tonight.





It's been a fun long day and we fall asleep quickly.

I did wake up in the middle of the night needing to um, go. I am feeling wimpy as ever and run into the lobby and use the toilet there. Teri is woken up by this and is very grumpy that I left the door open when I ran to the lobby. I was leaving the door open for the spider to leave, not return.

For more pictures of the day, which mostly include drenched Lao folks and tourists, see below. Click on the picture of Teri looking unhappy to see the whole album.

Day Eight (4.14.07)

Day Seven (Friday, April 13th)

I'm not sure if Friday the Thirteenth has any significance in Lao, but some of the events of the day made me think that Friday the Thirteenth lurks worldwide.

I should note that I am typing from a very sticky keyboard so there may be some typos. Apologies.

Teri and I headed out in the wilderness with Tung, our guide. Teri and I were wearing trail shoes and sneakers respectively, Tung was wearing flip flops. We had one pack between the two of us and I offered to carry it noting that the first part of the trail was flat before we reached the mountains.















As we started, a little Lao boy ran up to me shyly, touched my arm, laughed and ran away. It's kind of cool to be fascinating to someone.

Teri and I must be faster than the average traveler on this trek because in no time we arrive at the first village. We dropped our packs and explored. Because of the New Year, all the kids were out of school and as we walked around the village there were usually about 10 children just following us and laughing and giggling and then running away and hiding. Very cute.













Teri had the chance to help thatch a roof. We joked about the poor soul who stands underneath that part of the roof when it rains. They will get wet.



I wonder if they get Desperate Housewives here. What would the Kamu village make of Wisteria Lane?




We left the village and continued upwards. My plan worked perfectly because at this point, it was time for Teri to take the pack. Our guide showed us a plant that is used to treat malaria and I considered putting some of it in the pack. Both Teri and I are taking the Malaria medication and it is making both of us a little sick. But being a little sick is better than having Malaria, I guess.

As we leave the village I think to myself how "real" that felt. Almost so real, a part of me joked that as soon as we left all the "actors" call their agents to file their sessions fees for our visit and they pack up and check into Le Meridien Laos. Oh, I just can't supress my inner cynic.

We got to the top of the mountain. Our guide put out a wonderful lunch and as soon as he did it started to rain.



Jamie can't wait to eat the whole fish. For those of you who don't know Jamie doesn't eat any fish. Or seafood. Nothing. No, not even lobster, or oysters. Nothing. If it swam or lived in the ocean she doesn't eat it. That went over so well in Asia. But even Teri wasn't brave enough to eat the fish. Tung got a nice fish to himself that day.





This was my chance to be smug. You see, I packed smart for this trip. I got Nylon and Polyester clothes, all quick dry. Not the most fashionable, admittedly, but smart. Teri on the other hand, brought cute little dresses made of cotton, and sandals and mascara. "This is who I am" she claims.

So, we're soaking wet on the top of the mountain. Teri is shivering. I am such a good sister, I give her one of my quick dry shirts. I literally gave her the shirt off my back. Now, she is wearing all pink which is funny. As we go through the bag I see that she brought her cell phone, also pink, and we take pics.



Jamie, on a conference call from the top of a mountain in Cambodia. Calling in a JRO to Barbara Wittig or getting a product knowledge question answered by Bob Cordell. Or just blatantly ignoring Rod Brown's orders?



It stops raining and we hike down the mountain. Actually, it's more like slide. I slip down about three feet on my feet, then I'm on my bum and then I'm just laughing. I have the pack on for the way down, clever me. Tung gives me a piece of bamboo to use as a walking stick. I keep sliding. Tung gives me another piece of bamboo and i joke that I practically have crutches but it does make the slide down easier.





Teri, of course, is ahead of me, steadfast. As I'm sliding down the hill I practically slide into a cow, who Teri is busy photographing. The cow has a wooden bell on it's neck and I am reminded of the cows and bells I saw in Switzerland. This is a very different cow. We have no originality, we call the cow Bessie.



View from the Village as we approach it



We get to the village and are led to a hose to wash off. The color of the water (brown) has me wondering if I'm going to get dirtier than I started by using it. It washes the dirt clumps off but sort of stains the skin like a fake tanner. Teri loves it.

Two girls are playing with a lizard. They have it on a leash and it's kind of cute that they seem to be walking the lizard. But then they spin the lizard around on the rope and it's not so cute anymore.



We walk around a little bit. There are animals all over the place. I see the goats and I think about my pal Ellen in Durham with her goats. I miss you Ellen!




Then I wonder what everyone else back home is doing at that very moment in time and then I realize it's 3:00 in the morning and my interest in what everyone else is doing subsides because they are likely sleeping.

More pics from our meander





Tung walks us to the school. It is white and new and doesn't really match the home grown vibe of the rest of the town. Apparently it was sponsored or something by a group in Japan. I have Teri photograph the name of the school so we can read more about it later.



That is one thing about this trip which is a little frustrating for me. I only determined that I was going two weeks before I left leaving me very little time to "study up" on what I might see. Of course, I'm learning quite a bit as I go along but I do like to get all the background on politics, history and so forth before I go. If nothing else, I want to learn the local customs so I can avoid being another rude, ignorant tourist.

One custom I learned about is never to leave your chopsticks vertical in a dish. It looks too much like the incense sticks that they burn for the dead.

We also explore a Hmong Village right next to the Kamu village. The most noticeable difference is that the Hmong houses sit right on the ground whereas the Kamu houses are up on stilts. Tung tells us that Hmong have many wives. Polygamists! Which reminds me, when does Big Love start up again?


It rains again but this time Teri and I are in the shelter of the community meeting area. It's a short shower, as many of them are down here, and the sun comes out. And then the kids come out. Some of them without their clothes! They're slipping and sliding and having a great time.



We all decide to nap. We wake up and again the children flock to us. My head is feeling a little achey so I decide to keep napping.

Jamie's Retreat into the Hut. Little do we know that this is a pivotal moment in the day.



While I am napping Teri goes from being Princess to Mother Theresa. She is braiding the girls hair, playing games, and doing cartwheels and handstands. The kids try to do handstands but end up doing headstands. Which has got to hurt on the cement.





There was also a bug. A really big one.



And some fruit. Also really big.




When Teri comes into our, um, hut? to check on me the kids start banging on the walls. Wow. Teri is in demand with this crowd.

But, what Teri find in the hut is me, and at that point it's not pretty.

I went back to try to nap. I hear the rooster cocka doodle doing and I really hope that thing goes to sleep at night. If not, I wonder if the townspeople will notice if it's missing in the morning.

My headache worsens. My body is still a little screwed up from being 11 hours ahead of North Carolina. The day prior my Malaria medication decided to get out of my body via gagging my throat and sending me to the restroom. We've just hiked and have been very hot and very cold.

I also start to feel feverish. And nauseous. And in addition to all the physical stuff, I know that my pretty little head is also part of what I'm feeling physically. Sometimes, when I'm not feeling so well, I drive it. And without realizing it, that's exactly what I did. I completely spun my thoughts and physical state out of control.

I am having a headache. About every two years I get a migraine. Maybe this is a migraine. I can imagine the white bag where the migraine medication is. In North Carolina. Maybe I have Malaria. I am in a third world country. On the floor of a hut. I am dirty. I smell. My wet socks hang above my head and drip on me. If I can't be in my own bed, I want to be in the heavenly bed at the Westin. With 600 count white sheets. Why didn't I get that trip insurance? What if I have to be airlifted to Bangkok? That would be kind of cool actually if I wasn't feeling so poorly. I really think I am delirious.

Needless to say, I start to cry.

This is when I summon Mother Theresa from the kids. She's understanding but urges me to ride it out and calm down - she can sense that I'm pushing it (probably the tears gave it away). Even though she's right and I know it I am pretty nasty with her. It's the headache mostly that's making me nuts but all the other stuff doesn't help.

Tung comes in with some medicine. Which, given the setting makes me a little nervous. Thank goodness, it looks like aspirin and I take it.

I think about eating. I sit in front of a plate of food that looks great but feel the need to run out of the hut and vomit.

At this point I make the decision to summon the van and get out of here. I'm concerned my condition will worsen - (I know, it all sounds dramatic and silly in retrospect "my condition" but at the time I genuinely felt terrible and thought I might be getting ill in a significant way and made the most reasonable decision I could make under the circumstances).

You can tell Mother Theresa is a little upset but she's my sis and won't leave me alone. Nor does she want to be alone here.

It will take the van an hour and half to get here.

In the meantime, I go back into the hut. Tung comes and rubs my head while he talks to Teri. Teri is using her affected slow voice which generally annoys me but right now it's kind of soothing.

Of course, as the van pulls up, I am feeling much better and had practically drifted off to sleep. I'm not sure if it was the aspirin, or the head rub, or perhaps the thought that the van was coming that calmed me down.

We get in the van. The road out is not paved. Sometimes it's not a road. If I didn't already have a headache and a stomachache after this I would. There are times when it's so bouncy that my whole body bounces off the seat, I am airborne. I have to laugh at the situation. What else can I do? Teri is a little annoyed because she thinks we look like idiots calling the van to get me and then having me laugh. I'm not laughing at the humor, I'm laughing at the hilarity. There is a difference.

We get back to town. We find a hotel room at the Villa Santi. I am thrilled. Bed. Teri is like "It's 10:30 - let's go out. I'm not just going to sleep again early." Ummmmm, Teri, I still feel like hell. She's annoyed and grumpy and goes to sleep. Understandably.

My last words to her are "I forgive you for not going waterskiing with me the other morning."

For the full collection of the pics from this memorable day click on the picture below to see the full album.

Day Seven (4.13.07)