Day Twelve (Wednesday, April 18th)

Have you ever heard someone say "Oh, it was so hot, it was like 100 degrees." How often do you think it was actually 100 degrees when they said that? Rarely, I wager. Today, however, it was that hot. It was 100 degrees. It felt like a bazillion degrees. I have really never felt heat as oppressive as I felt today. I glistened all day long and every ounce of fluid in my body was sweat out into my clothes, which will require multiple launderings upon my return.

Getting through another NC summer is going to be a breeze. And suddenly, I'm remembering those Minnesota winters and trying to decide which type of temperature extremes I prefer.

I wake up at 4:30am. I'll be meeting my guide at 8:00am. When I made the reservation, that seeemed earlier. Now, it seems like light years away. Tired, but awake, I turn on CNN.com for more coverage of the VT shootings.

I meet Dara my guide for the day. Reader, meet Dara:


Dara has so much history and information to share about the temples but I find one of his stories most interesting. His own.

He's been a guide since the mid-nineties. As have many of his sisters. They speak many languages between the five of them. During the tour, we actually meet his Russian speaking sister.


His sister, Ponheary Ly, is the lead sibling in touring. In fact, there's The Ponheary Ly Foundation

The Foundation donates money for children to go to school. Sadly, many of the children are not in school. Rather, they beg from tourists who visit the temples. For one child to go to school for one year - it's $12.00. And that's too much for most families.

I've always known that I'm lucky to have grown up in a family with resources, and in a town with good schools. Traveling reminds me how lucky I am to have been born in this country. For all of America's problems, it does take decent care of the people.

Dara tells me about learning English from a textbook with a friend. He sought out teachers, and put all of his money into learning. When he was in the military he paid as much as he could afford to prevent having to be on the frontline. That decision likely saved his life. He has three kids. During the busy season, he gives tours every single day. It's hard work. Heck, after a few hours I'm a little tired of the running around. I wish I could have written down everything he told me at the time. I took in a lot of information that day.

Dara takes me to the temples. His knowledge of the history is incredible. His English is excellent. I'm not going to recount all the history here, as that's widely available other places. One book I do recommend to learn more is Angkor By Dawn Rooney. I paged through that in preparation for my trip and have referred to it several times since the trip to remind me of something I saw or heard.

Dara, unlike Teri, insists that I'm in the pictures. No worries, Teri. Every shot with me in it I also have without me in it. I'm likely to include the pictures with me in them just to annoy Teri. You cannot photoshoot out that blue blob on the pics that is Jamie. It's not that the people who take the vacation need to be in every last shot. But, at the very least, someone looking through the pictures should have some idea whose vacation it was, anyway.

So, here are a few pics, with occasional commentary:

















The grandaddy of all temples, Angkor Wat (view from the Eastern entrance).



This blue tank top is international. See this post, third pic down.


Ok, a quick break from the Jamie-o-rama.





Unfortunately, some of the ruins have been taken home by visitors. Heads seem to be a popular souvenir.



Very steep stairs. Try climbing those in 100 degrees. I did! Dara stayed on the second level. This is not something you would, or shoudl, do every day.



Another picture to illustrate what I mean by steep. These people are practically on all fours.



View from the top. Ah, a perfect moment for reflection.



Monk in the distance





Monkey. I think about the Monkey Hook.



Here's an interesting factoid. They ONLY have four leaf clovers in Cambodia.



Bayon Temple. Temple of Smiling Faces. When I asked Dara what Cambodians think of Angelina Jolie he said "We compare her smile to the smiles of the faces on the Bayon Temple.



Eskimo kisses with the temple.





Ta Prohm. Also known as the Jungle Temple. Proof that Mother Natures goes wherever she wants.







Ta Phrom is where Angelina shot Tomb Raider.

See Angelina. See Jamie.














Ok, so she's cooler than me.



And just as we were finishing up, it started to rain.

For more pics of Jamie. And oh yeah, those temples.
Click on the photo below to see the full album.

Day Twelve (4.18.07)

Day Eleven (Tuesday, April 17th)

Jamie and Teri head over to airport together. But this time, Princess is going back to Seattle and Jamie is going to Cambodia.

I walk Teri to the gate and I have to admit, I feel a bit choked up after we say goodbye. My sister and I are very close, we've spent almost every waking (and non-waking moment) together and had a great time and I'm going to miss her. I kinda cry.

I have to admit, part of me just wants to go back home today. It almost feels like the trip is over now that Teri is gone. But, I'm going to Cambodia. Teri so wanted to join me but she's gotta get back to work. I tell myself that I have to go enjoy it for Teri - so I can tell her good stories and enjoy it, since she can't. And for me. There's a part of me that's quite independent, introspective, and self sufficient. But there's another part of me (probably a bigger part) that's terrifically extroverted and the idea of just me and my thoughts for four days is a little daunting.

I have two hours to kill so I go to the Bangkok Airlines Lounge and go online. A few exchanges with, of all people, Rod Brown and I end up feeling better. He reminds me that I'm adjusting to being out of the bubble of being with Teri, that all the BS going on at home is still there and that taking this trip is one of the best things I have ever done.

I also learn that the tightness in my chest, the feeling like there's a cork in my esophagus is called "esophageal ulceration." Somehow, having a name for this, and knowing that it's a common side effect of the Malaria meds makes me feel better. I need to drink more water.

The flight is called and I take a bus out to the plane. The plane says "Bhutan Airlines" which confuses me. Did I get on the right bus? Am I going to Bhutan? I guess that Bangkok airlines has borrowed a plane from Bhutan. Oh boy. Adventure.

Land in Siem Reap and am meeted by my Tuk Tuk driver who takes me to my hotel. I quickly organize some stuff and head out to the temples. Tomorrow I have a tour with a highly recommended guide but I'm too close to this world wonder not to just run over and check it out.

It is pretty stunning. I wander and shoot. And think.





The Tuk Tuk driver also takes me to the Museum of Land Mines. There's a gift shop.

View from the Tuk Tuk



Land Mines Museum.

From the guidebooks
"If natures call and you have to "go" it's much better to just do it on the road and suffer a little embarassment rather than take your chances wandering into the bushes off the road."
















Later, when the sun starts to set, I take some pictures in downtown Siem Reap. It's not quite as quaint as Luang Prabang. There's more poverty and dust.









Can't get away from it, now can I?






I find an internet cafe and realize I can make a phone call to USA for only 25 cents a minute. I call a few folks and marvel how cool it is that I'm making phone calls from Cambodia. It's nice to hear some familiar voices even if the reception is bad and there's a six second delay.

I return to my hotel, The Villa Siem Reap. It's run by an Australian Lady. Tonight is the "Big Aussie BBQ" and I think that maybe I'll meet some other tourists. I end up being the only person at the BBQ but the food is good and plentiful and I'm kinda tired anyway.

I go to my room and watch CNN.com. In the USA, it's the morning after the Virginia Tech shootings and I watch the coverage.

I fall asleep thinking "I am in Cambodia. How cool is that?"

Day Ten (Monday, April 16th)

It is our last morning in LP and we do all the things we think we'll feel guilty if we don't do after having been here for so long. Things like the night market, avoiding the New Year's festivities, and feeling sick because of our meds have taken up more time than anticipated.

The day starts of at 6:00 am watching the monks giving alms. All the monks in a row in orange walking down the sidewalk.





Later in the day we check out some of the Temples.

And yes, hit the market just one more time. I could totally return to this place again, just to shop. Robert warned me. In fact, I've purchased so much on this trip that I need to buy another bag. Robert also advised me to bring an extra bag. Knowing my own discipline I chose not to bring a whole empty bag for stuff. So much for that.

All the vendors store their wares in these plastic like bag things that are probably ten cents each. I need one. The first vendor I approach refuses. The second one sells it to me for $4 dollars. I have a handknit purse for $3 dollars in my possession but somehow this dumpy, cheap, one step up from a plastic bag container is going to end up costing me.

Earlier in the week we noticed that many vendors were selling birds. Apparently, they trap the birds, put them in a little cage, people buy them, and then release them. And then the birds are trapped again. That's a business model I like.





We arrive at the airport in LP. We had done some itinerary switching and Teri and I thought we were on the same flight. It turns out that Teri's flight was two hours ago and I'm booked on the flight that is going to leave shortly. Being the nice sister I am (remember, shirt off my back) I give Teri my seat. She needs to get back to Bangkok tomorrow to fly home to Seattle.

But boy oh boy do I relish the opportunity to chastise Teri for totally relying on me to make all the plans, have all the money (her Visa couldn't get her cash so I was the SUGAH for this trip). Teri owns up to it, which makes chastising her less fun. Actually, I really appreciate that.

Luckily, I get a seat on this flight. We have a goofy time on the way home. Somehow, we have taken great amusement in the name of the author of my book "Joyce Carol Oates." Every time we say it we laugh. We play hangman. We play Tic Tac Toe. I beat Teri at one round. It's like the first time in 20 years I haven't tied someone in Tic Tac Toe. I finish my book and Teri off the picture of JOYCE and give it to Teri for memories. Why this name is so funny, I don't know. But I guarantee I could call Teri up right now, say that name, and we would laugh hysterically.

We get to Bangkok and it's back to our home away from home, The Novotel Hotel. I have to admit, I'm kind of glad that I won't have to do a spider check before I go to the bathroom. And, as charming as the Luang Prabang geckos were during our dinners, I'm glad they won't be joining us tonight.

We spend much time loading the pictures in the high class business center. It's fun to see the trip come to life. We make reservations at the same restaurant where we made reservations last time. Last time, we slept through them. This time, we sleep through them again. At least we're consistent.

I packed very lightly for this trip. I thought I would buy some clothes. Haven't really done that. I wear a smelly t-shirt and my sarong to dinner. Teri is horrified and rightfully so. I do look pretty dumpy.

Here are all the pics from the day. Click on the picture below to see the full album.

Day Ten (4.16.07)